Essaouira stands out amongst the tourist towns of Morocco, for its altogether less intense atmosphere. This is, in part, thanks to the wonderful location and some fine sandy shores on the Atlantic coast, but also because given the frenetic activity inherent in the medinas of Marrakech and Fès, it is a welcome retreat from such drama. In the 1960s, it first came to prominence as a popular ‘hippie’ destination for surfers and artists, and acquired a culture somewhat more akin to that of European seaside spots. That said, this is no tacky resort; there is plenty of Morocco here.

Meander through its streets and visit the shops which offer an abundance of furniture, notably including thuya-sculpted objects. The medina is in close proximity to the citadel ramparts, which provide the distinctive outline of this town, along which there are a number of excellent restaurants. Having witnessed the lively fish auctions, you can sample the seafood on offer here, with grilled sardines a local favourite. The ramparts resemble those of Saint Malo in northern France, having been designed by a French architect to protect Essaouira’s inhabitants from invaders. Quite a few artists came to settle here a while back, leading to a long-established schedule of expositions and shows. The town is renowned for artisan products like wood sculptures, paintings and fabrics.

Essaouira dates from around 3000 years ago, a fortified fishing village, which was controlled by the Portuguese in the 16th century (when it was called Mogador), before being French-governed, and finally becoming a part of the Moroccan Kingdom again as recently as 1956.

The old town is characterised by blue and white buildings. The calm look of tall white houses and blue doors has a freshness that matches that of the breezy, laid-back feel of Essaouira. Talking of breezes, the mix of strong sunshine and cooling airs off the Atlantic endows Essaouira with a comfortable climate for making the most of the long sandy beaches, though care must be taken in the water as there are some strong currents. This does not deter the ardent enthusiasts though, and there is plentiful opportunity for good surfing, and scuba divers will find plenty to interest them too. Because the deserts and the imperial cities have what can be unaccommodating temperatures in summer, this is one of the most popular places to go in Morocco in summer. One would therefore be advised to book early or take advantage of the comfortable climate to visit in spring, autumn or even winter.

Pronunciation Tip: Call it "Essa-weera".

Click this link to go to a listing of little hotels in Essaouira.